le mani d'oro: Coton

One pattern, two dresses

For the past six to seven years Burda Style magazine has been my main source of sewing patterns. I find their style to be up to date with current fashion trends and mostly they correspond to my taste. The ones I have sewn where very flattering.

The October 2012 number is one of my favorite. Though it was issued 5 years ago, many patterns featured in it are still trendy or "à la mode" as we say in French. The following dress pattern had been in my mind since then. Often, I was looking at it imagining the dress in wool for winter or in cotton for summer. I liked the cowl neckline, the gathered side and the fact that the front is cut on bias. The pattern has texture and movement and yet this is a classic dress.

Burda 2012-10-118A

Those shoes, I tried to find them on the net... but did not succeed...

Here is the technical drawing for this dress, taken on the Burda Web site

Burda 2012-10-118 technical drawing

While measuring all pattern pieces and after correcting the hip curve, waist size and length of the back ( I have a swayback); I was under the impression that the dress would fit like a glove... and it did.

Denim is not only for jeans ...
The first version I have sewn is in dark denim with a grayish wrong side, similar to the fabric used for old 1950's jeans. Here are the piece placed on the fabric.

pattern pieces Burda 2012-10-118.

As you notice the front piece (top right) is curved. The top part is on grain line while the bottom ends up on bias. This is a tiny detail that really pleases me. As you gather the left side, the piece straighten up. It also features a self facing neckline.

Since the front piece was to big to cut on my regular cutting table (the kitchen island) which measure 75x180 cm or 30x72 inches, I decided to cut on the floor... My back does not think that this is a good practice... This is a nice, non stretch, medium weight denim I bought at Tonitex in Montreal. It was 7.65 $ a meter. With the zip, thread and taxes, I have a 10$ dress. No made in China clothing beats that! I haven't asked DH to take official picture of this creation. The only pictures I have are the ones taken at work during an award ceremony prior to the graduation party we hold every year.

At work wearing the denim version of the Burda 2012-10-118 dress.

The students, Sophie and Pierre-Luc look so serious ;-) and I have a goofy mouth... typical of speech-pictures. I let the neck line flow naturally. It is large and can be place in many many ways.

Front view of the Burda 2012-10-118 dress with Sophie and Pierre-Luc.

I love those two students, their energy, joy and commitment enlighten all moments I had the chance to work with them in the past 5 years. Sophie is now working as junior architect and Pierre-Luc is still pursuing is master in landscape architecture. On that they I had gorgeous royal blue suede shoes that add a touch of fun to this serious outfit.

A passion for red
I like to wear red clothes and shoes, I wonder why I do not sew clothes in that color more often. The second version of this lovely dress was sewn in 100% Italian linen. This linen was left form a previous red dress project sewn some 8 years ago. Time flied and I realized looking at pictures that my hair was a little less silver back then. The piece of fabric left form the first dress was a little small, so I made the dress 5 or 6 cm shorter then the denim one. It was the only way to fit that funky front piece on it. I also forgot about the sleeves, I had enough for them... well barely but I could fit sleeves that would have been above the elbow. I change my mind at the last minute. And still kept the shorter length.

Burda 2012-10-118

Funny I wear the same shoes I did in 2009 with the other red dress. I love them and since I am very careful with my shoes, they still look new... they might be out of style, but I like them. I am wearing the dress with a silver brooch holding the cowl neckline in place.

The back is super simple. Not fuss here

Ta da ! My expression on the following picture says it all. I am in love with that dress.

Not bad for a 50 years old woman.

I also wear the dress with flat beige suede Frye sandals or black heals.

Voilà, that's it for today. I have to review polka dots pants next. I found one funny Moschino cotton to make them. My boss thinks that they are a bit psychedelic, but I don't

haaaa yes, one last picture goofing around with my friend Josée's Easter island statue... she has an amazing back yard, I just cannot stay serious too long.

Patterns - Fabric - Notions

Patterns: Burda Style magazine 2012-10-118 size 36.

Fabric: Denim in 100% cotton from Tonitex. Red linen from Madeleine Soie et Laine (now closed, sadly)

Notions: YKK zippers and Gutterman thread from Club Tissus.

20 h 41
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More and more lingerie sewing

Bra

Slow is the new black
We live in world of speed and consumption. Do I agree with that, NO ... I have to hold on to my values and hold my horses for not consuming more than what I "need". Then again, needs are always relative to the observer's position as Einstein said. Since I do not like to conform, my answer to our world of speed is of course to slow down.

I am a runner and I run with a group, I am the slowest.

I am a house-cook and I cook slow food.

I am a seamstress and I sew, so very slowly.

This is how I am, this who I am. As Prévert wrote, I am who I am. Je suis comme je suis.

Last summer was a busy time in my life, in our life since DH was involve in all the movement. We redecorated our condominium, we got married and unfortunately, I lost my father. He passed away unexpectedly, 13 days before our wedding. In between all of that, I had the time to sew my wedding dress and other items like the lingerie pieces featured in the present post.

Lingerie sewing, unlike the rest of my sewing, was not natural for me. Lingerie sewing requires more attention then the rest of my sewing projects. I am encouraged by the fact that it gets nicer and nicer with every pieces One day, it will be as precise as the rest of my sewing.

For this project, I took some left over seersucker in white and red. It was left from a kid clothing project done in 2008. I wanted to have a bra that had/has a little retro flair. A bra similar to what I use to buy in France in the early 1980's or even the ones my mother wore in the 1960's.

Mission accomplished, it is like I wanted. So let me introduce the BB model. BB for Brigitte Bardot. Sorry the is the first name that came to my mind.

Boylston bra in cotton seersucker - pattern from Orange Lingerie

How is it cut and sewn?

The bra is made with 100% cotton seersucker. Since that fabric has no elasticity, all cotton pieces were cut on bias. Cutting the fabric on bias allows a little movement, essential for my comfort. If I remember well, this movement is called mechanical give in English. The front of the panties are also cut on bias. The bra's back band and the back panels of the briefs are in power mesh. The Boylston bra pattern calls for a single layer of power mesh for the back band. For durability and look inside the bra, I tend to use two layers of mesh sewn in order to sandwich the frame between the two layers of mesh. The finition is impeccable. If you want to learn more about that technique, Tailor Made Blog explains it very well. By cliking on the link you will arrive on the right page.

I like shooting my lingerie on a white plexi with strong lights underneath. Depending on the speed of the camera, I get this XRay effect or a less transparent effect like on the following picture. The XRay effect goes with the slow speeds on the camera.

Boylston bra with two pairs of Montgomery briefs, both from Orange Lingerie

The fun part about sewing our own lingerie is that we can decide on a certain number of things, like having two pairs of briefs. This way, I get to wear my bra two days before washing it.

Seersucker is a type of textured gingham. This is bra to wear with sweaters or shirts more then with a tight t-shirt. Though it might look stiff, it is superbly comfortable. I ranks high among my favorite bras. It is cute and red, what else is there to ask ;-)

The front of the Montgormery briefs is made with the same cotton cut on bias. It then give a bit of mechanical give. The back is made with a double layer of power net.

Inside back of the Montgomery brief.

The sewing technique developed by Orange Lingerie is so great! On top of not having an elastic that cuts your cheek in two, the back of the brief has a clean look and sleek finish inside and outside.

Here are more views of my bra

The comfort of this bra is sooo great. The fact that the straps are joining the closure in the back plays a big role in that comfort factor.

The front straps are made with a lace ribbon doubled with elastic. The same elastic as the one installed in the under arm region. All notions are listed below. I stretched the elastic just a bit so that the front strap would not pull on my shoulder and hurt. When the bra is on the table the front strap ripples a bit. While on me it lays flat and smooth.

Thought the cups seamed to be lined with foam, they are not. It is only the crisp of the cotton and me placing them with love and patience.

Pattern and notions

Patterns - Fabric - Notions

Patterns: Boylston bra and -Montgomery brief both from Orange Lingerie

Fabric: Cotton seersucker from Madeleine Soie et laine (now closed) - Mesh and the bra lining fabric (not shown) are form Bra Makers Supply in Hamilton Ontario Canada (on line). I used their regular bra lining fabric available in white or black.

Notions: All elastics, the closure and the bow were part of a Bra Makers Supply kit. I had enough elastic for 1 bra and 1 pair of panties. The rest was bought by the meter. The lace straps are form Laceville on Etsy.