le mani d'oro

I could not resist share this awesome video...  plus I will know where to find it in the future.

I started that sewing project in a sewing class... well a sewing class I did not enjoy at all. Retail wear oriented construction is just not my thing. So I was kind of not friends with the jacket until I picked up Claire Shaeffer's fabulous instructions and I decided to pimp the jacket's up to the level I wanted. I still have many steps ahead, but I am getting there.




By the way, this is the first tailored collar I have ever sewn.  I am very proud of it. I waited 24 to sew a tailor jacket simply because the collar intimated me. Well, I should have jumped before.

And Claire is a sewing genius !!!

Over the years, I have been inspired by tuxedo dresses designed by Paul Smith. Some had a shawl collar or a tailored one, some had sleeves and some were like that following, not suited for winters in Montreal. In the end, I wanted them all. I was dreaming of having one of those in my closet.

Tuxedo Dress from Paul Smith's 2013 collection picture taken on Polyvore

On realistic note, very chic dresses don't get to go out often of my wardrobe. I work in a university where most of professors and administrators are rather relaxed looking on a day to day basis. I had to make the concept evolve towards the reality of my life.Chic London cocktail are not part of my reality.

Well, I thought that this Burda Magazine pattern would be an excellent compromise between my work environment and my passion of tuxedo dresses.

Burda Magazine 2012-11-133

I cut the usual size combination for my silhouette: 38 for the bust, 34 for the waist and 36 for the hip zone. Gladly, I have sewn a muslin for the top part. Ho la la, this dress sizes very big. As you can tell from the following pictures, it requires many adjustments. I am floating in it and so is Daisy my dressform. I look like a little girl wearing her big sister's dress...  not the look I want !

Burda 2012-11-133 muslin 1 too big

Burda 2012-11-133 muslin 1 too big

 So I am back to the drafting table to draw a pattern one size smaller. I hope that it will work this time.

Sur ce blog ou sur Facebook, je mentionne souvent mon intérêt et mon admiration pour le travail de Marie Saint-Pierre, cette grandissime designer Montréalaise. Puisque j'aime coudre mes propres vêtements et que je n'ai pas les moyens de m'acheter les orignaux, je me suis lancée à l'aventure de la conception d'un patron signé Anne-Marie. Bien sûr, je ne compare pas mon travail avec le sien. Mon travail demeure celui d'une amateure passionnée.

On this blog or on Facebook, I often wrote about my admiration and my great interest for Marie Saint-Pierre's work. Marie is a great and orginal designer from Montreal you should discover. Since I love to sew my own clothes and my wallet is not thick enough to buy the original, I launched my self into conceiving a dress signed Anne-Marie instead of Marie. I of course do not compare my work with her magnificent creations.

L'inspiration


La ligne ajustée de la robe noire et la taille empire me plaisait beaucoup et je désirais la joindre au drapé latéral de la robe beige.

I was attracted by the adjusted line of the black dress and it's empire waist. I wanted to join it to the lateral drape of the beige one.

La conception
Voici les pièces hauts et la première version de la jupe dessinée - Here are the top pieces (front and back) and the first version for the skirt that I drew.


Après avoir fait une toile en tricot de la jupe, j'ai réalisé que le drapé latéral en convenait pas. Il y avait trop de volume et de tissu pour ma petite silhouette (taille 36) et ma taille (1m63).

After sewing a knit muslin of the skirt part I realized that the lateral drape was oversized for my height (5'4'') and my silhouette (size 0 or 2).

Après correction
Après correction sur la toile, j'ai opté pour ce patron de jupe - After correcting on the muslin, I opted for this skirt pattern.


Le résultat
Voici le résultat en tricot de laine - Here is the result in wool knit







J'aime beaucoup le résultat final. Ce qui me plait toutefois un peu moins, c'est le tricot de laine que j'ai utilisé. Il se détend beaucoup sur la largeur une fois cousu. La robe est beaucoup moins ajusté que je l'aurais voulu. Les proportion du haut de la robe donne en principe une coupe ajusté et je l'avais d'ailleurs déjà testé avec un tricot de chez Emma One Sock. La robe demeure plus ample, mais je l'aime tout de même. Je reçois d'ailleurs plusieurs compliments lorsque je la porte. Peut être a-t-elle besoin de quelques minutes dans le sèche linge?

Jersey double 100% laine très fin
Doublure de la jupe en tricot de polyestère

Though I really like the final result, I might not have use right the knit for my pattern. Even if the pattern of the top, that I already tested with another Emma One Sock knit, was designed to be very fitted, the black wool knit did get loose after sewing if. I still have more of that knit and I will use it for an ampler dress pattern. The hand and the feeling on the skin is very nice.  

When I find a thick synthetic knit, I will redo this dress. Meanwhile, I wear it in its present state, and I enjoy it. At work, I received lots of positive comments. I might be able to tighten the knit by putting in the dryer?


100% very fine wool jersey
Skirt lining in polyester knit

La première version
Voici la première version de ce patron réalisée dans une tricot de laine et synthétique acheté en 2010 chez Emma One Sock - Here is the first version sewn with this pattern. This is a wool and synthetic knit from Emma One Sock

Je n'étais pas du tout satisfaite des photographies de mon manteau Burda 8017 mises en ligne précédemment. Elles me semblaient fades et peu saturées en couleur en raison de l'heure du jour où elles ont été prises. J'en mets donc de toutes nouvelles prises hier à la maison. Mon conjoint mérite des remerciements pour cette séance productive. Je sais qu'il déteste prendre ce type de photos et il a accepté de me consacrer une bonne heure. Comme il gagne sa vie comme photographe reporter nature, je comprends son manque d'intérêt à photographier des vêtements.

The pictures already posted of my Burda 8017 winter coat were lacking contrast and saturation. I jumped on the occasion of having my DH at home to take pictures of a few garments I recently sewn.

Voilà ! 

Test lumière et exposition - Lets test light and aperture

		Avant de prendre les photos discutons du concept ;-)   - Before shooting anything, let's talk about the objectives ;-) Oups buttons not all snaped - oups un bouton de défait

Vue de côté - Side view

Pause rigolade - Lets goof a bit !

Oh the magnetic buttons are not that good - Oups les boutons magnétiques ne sont pas géniaux

DH is suggesting to raise the sealing to make a real studio - humm vivement un plafond de 3.2 mètres comme dans une vrai studio

Le col monte très haut, parfait pour l'hiver Montréalais - The collar is high and perfect for Montreal's winter.

Lots of latitude for movements - Tout l'espace voulu pour mes grandes enjambées !

Sneak peek of my funny dress this will be in my next post - Un aperçu de ma robe d'inspiration Marie St-Pierre... plus de détails prochainement

I know this is not the best picture I could post. But, I was so exited to have finished it. With one muslin I was able to correct my pattern and get the result I wanted.

Again, this dress is inspired from two dressed designed by Marie Saint-Pierre. Of course, I would never dare to compare my work with hers. I simply enjoy sewing and drawing my own clothes...  and I cannot afford buying the real thing.  May be when I grow up !

The dress is made in a thin double wool jersey bought at Emma One Sock. This jersey it not made for very fitting garment. It is more appropriate for garment with a certain drape. The dress has an empire waist line. The top comes from a Jalie t-shirt pattern and the bottom is all mine. I will post pictures of the pattern pieces and of me wearing it.

Tomorrow, it comes to work with me ;-)

For the past 3 weeks, I was busy getting everything ready for Christmas (that means rushing to have 3 muslins done for my little sister). Now that all parties are over... well until new year's eve, I can sew a little for me.

This is what my Burda 8017 coat looks like today. I simply have to attach the lining and sew the oversize snaps. After that, I will enjoy !

Comme j'ai consacré les trois derniers semaines aux préparatifs de Noël, j'ai peu cousu pour moi. J'ai prix le temps de monter 3 toiles pour ma petite soeur et aujourd'hui, j'avance mon manteau. Il ne me reste qu'à coudre la doublure au manteau et à installer les boutons pressions géants. Ensuite, j'aurai un nouveau compagnon pour l'hiver. J'ai très hâte !!

 

Marking is a long  process, but it always pays

It is rare that I sew at night during the week. I am am always afraid of making mistakes when I am tired. The only exception is cutting fabric. I takes less skills but still the same level of concentration. Plus the sound of the scissors on the table is relaxing and zen, it is great before going bed...  but still it does not put me to bed. ;-)

Il est rare pour moi de coudre le soir la semaine. J'ai toujours peur de faire une erreur stupide et irréversible. La seule étape qui fait exception demeure celle de la coupe des pièces du vêtement. La coupe demande moins d'habilité que d'autres étapes, mais autant de concentration. Le bruit des ciseaux sur la table est relaxant et zen...  C'est parfait avant d'aller au lit, sans pour autant m'endormir. Il ne faut pas mélanger les deux.


One other step that pleases me greatly is the marking step. It is often perceived as being boring. In my opinion it is so essential in order to have a strait and balanced garment. I feel more secure when I mark the important lines (centre front, centre back, waist line, bust level etc.). For this coat pattern the placement lines on the bottom part require to be well traced, or else I will not be able to superimposed the top part at the right place These days I am reading Claire Shaeffer's books on Couture techniques. The next marking I will be doing is marking the seam lines, to achieve a more couture result.

L'autre étape que je trouve cruciale demeure celle du marquage des pièces de patrons. Je le fais avec patience et application. Je considère ce marquage comme essentiel à la réalisation d'un vêtement droit et bien balancé. En fait, je me sens à l’abri de certaines erreurs lorsque je marque le plus de lignes importantes possibles, comme le centre dos, le centre devant, la ligne de taille ou la hauteur du buste. Pour ce patron, les lignes les plus importantes à marquer sont sans contredit les lignes de placement de la partie supérieure sur le bas. Sans cela, je ne vois pas comment on peut réaliser un vêtement réussi. Ces jours-ci, je lis l'ouvrage de Claire Shaeffer sur les techniques de haute couture. Le prochaine type de marquage que j'expérimenterai, c'est celui des lignes de couture afin d'obtenir un résultat vraiment couture.  



Since this coat is made in a top and bottom part sewn together, it is not a mistake if it looks short at this step. I am starting all the pad stitching required to get a perfectly and softly rolling collar.

I don't know if you notice, but I cut the size 36 and it fits much, much better.

Comme ce manteau se compose d'un partie supérieure et d'une partie inférieure, il est normal que le manteau soit encore court à cette étape-ci. Maintenant, j'entame le montage du col avec tous les points tailleurs nécessaires à l'obtention d'un col roulant avec souplesse et perfection.


Je ne sais pas si vous pouvez remarquer la différence de taille, mais j'ai taillé le 36. Je trouve l'ajustement beaucoup plus en lien avec mes objectifs.

What I like about that future coat: the colour and the sofness of the wool .


Ce que j'aime de ce futur manteau, la couleur et la texture merveilleuse de cette laine.

I finished my dress last week on time for a Gala night for students (I work in a university). A group of students from the faculty where I work won the second price in their category. It was a great night.

This dress is up to all my expectations. It is soft (the knit is made of wool, silk, cashmere and a bit of cotton), light, very comfortable and supposedly elegant if I believe the colleagues and friend who complemented me. I like the fit as well. My pattern is exactly like I wanted it.  The only thing I do not like, it is the fact that I did not leave it enough time on Daisy (my mannequin) so that the knit could fully stretch. This is surprising, I left it on daisy for two days!! I will have to re-hem it, which is not that bad. It shall take me no more then 60 minutes.

Though I thank DH for the pictures, I will probably post new ones taken during day light. I do not like pictures taken with a flash.

As I reminder, my pattern was created with the following pieces:

For the neck line and the rest of the top front the drafting is inpired by Vogue 8413 and Vogue 1250
For drawing the back, I took pieces of Vogue 8413 and Butterick 4976
For the sleeves I use the ones from view B in Vogue 8413 easy choice.
Finally for the skirt, I took a little bit of Butterick 4976 (for the waist line) and Kwik Sew 3472 for the rest.

Français
J'ai terminé ma robe Frankenstein juste à temps pour le Gala Forces Avenir. Des étudiants de notre Faculté étaient en nomination et ils ont gagné le second prix. Quelle belle soirée émouvante.

Décidément, cette robe remplie toutes mes attentes. Elle est douce (le tricot se compose de laine, de soie, de cashmere et de coton), légère, féminine, confortable et à en croire mes collègues et amies, elle est aussi élégante. J'ai atteint mes objectifs. Voilà un projet couture qui me comblent. Le seul détail à corriger sur cette robe c'est l'ourlet. Bien que j'ai laissé la robe s'étirer sur Daisy (mon mannequin) durant preque deux jours, je note que la ligne d'ourlet nécessite quelques corrections. Avant de la retoucher, je la laverai et une fois sèche elle passera encore un bon 24 heures en compagnie de Daisy. Il me reste donc un petit 60 minutes de travail et pas plus.


En résumé, j'ai utilisé les patrons suivants:

Pour l'encolure et le devant en général je me suis inspiré des patrons Vogue 8413 et Vogue 1250
Pour dessiner le dos, le Vogue 8413 et Butterick 4976 m'ont été fort utiles
Les manches sont prise tel quel de la robe B du Vogue 8413
Finalement, la jupe amalgame la ligne de taille du Butterick 4976 et le reste vient du Kwik Sew 3472.

Bien que j'apprécie le temps passé par mon conjoint à photographier la robe, le résultat avec le flash ne me plait pas. Je mettrai des photos de jours avec un éclairage pour intéressant cette fin de semaine.

Avec ma veste de cuir brun-aubergine

Vue de dos robe Frankenstein

As for most of my dress I added two darts to the back neckline. They disappear in the print. Since the misfit caused by my tiny neck and strait back is not covered by any of the two fitting books I own, I developed my own technique by try and error. Now I know what to do.

Comme pour presque toutes mes robes, j'ai ajouté des pinces à l'encolure dos. Elles disparraissent dans le motif. Point intéressant, je ne trouve jamais dans les livres sur les ajustements le type de mauvais plis que mon petit cou et mon dos très droit engendre. J'ai du développer ma technique pas essai - erreur.

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New project on the table - Mon nouveau projet- Burda 8017


I took over a project planed last year. Muslin for my Burda 8017 jacket is done...  at least for the top part. I did not sew the bottom yet. I will try it on and let you know what it requires to be up to my taste.



Comme nouveau projet, j'ai repris la confection d'un manteau planifié l'an dernier. Il s'agit d'un manteau en laine bouillie orange brûlée. J'utilise le patron Burda 8017. La toile est à moitié montée. Il me reste la portion du bas à ajouter (le manteau et fait de deux sections cousues l'une sur l'autre). J'ai fait la photo avec une veste (non terminée) en dessous. Je jugerai vraiment de l'ajustement une fois sur moi. À suivre.

As Mary Beth said practice was the only way to succeed in" cover stitching" the pockets. I must have spent 2 hours sewing samples. Ô did I not think twice when I chose to use the under part of the cover stitch. I had to sew blindly the right side of the pockets. Nevertheless, I consider that differences that are under 2 mm from one pocket to other (width, height of the pocket etc.) are not worth mentioning. Though the picture gives you the impression that those pockets are not at the same level, they are.

So I went further with the rest. Now the sleeves are hand basted and I am waiting tomorrow morning to finish it. Please note that I have to trim the seam allowance. The final look will be like the green one I sew.

Then the pants will be made.

For spring break this year, I had offer my son a trip to Bonaire. I wanted to introduce him to snorkelling in a paradisaical setting.

Very kindly my 13 year-old son, who dreams to be an architect, asked if we could travel to Barcelona instead. He wanted to see and visit Gaudi's creations. This trip was originally plan for him. Then, how could I say no to a destination that would please him more ?

We started planning last Septembre. The airplane ticket has been bought last fall and we reserved the apartment in Eixampe, a trendy area of Barcelona according to my Lonely Planet travelling guide.

I revised my wardrobe and though of what I should bring. I enjoy travelling very light. My son and I will be there for 7 days and there is a washing machine in the flat. So for both of us a small 23 inches suit case, one cabin tote and a messenger bag will be way enough. Clothes wise, we don't want to be spotted as tourists who carry lost of money. So jeans and simple clothes will be brought along.

In Montreal I wear lost of outdoors type of clothes, but in Europe this is not as trendy. The great outdoors are a little further away from the city.

So quick, I am putting away my current sewing project to make one little wool fleece jacket and one pair of black cotton pants.

For the jacket, I will use my Burda 8018 pattern. Fast and effective. I have in hand a double face wool fleece with nylon mesh on the other side. This fabric will be nice to wear over a long sleeve t-shirt and won't have such a sporty look. Top stitch in light grey will give it a nice look.

Here is a close look of the fabric
(click to see better).

For the second project. I don't know yet which pattern I will use. I am leaving on February 25 so there not that much time left. I wanted to sew pants with in seam side pocket, a front fly and welt pockets in the back but just the welt pockets take to much time :-(. Humm the black bottom weight cotton may be use for an easier pattern. I have this nice Burda pattern (those pants pattern fit me perfectly) I had transformed to create this effectThe only difference with those pants is a centre front seam that add a little texture and allows me to take the dart away. Those pants and very quickly sewn. So it will be my choice. One pair of black pants, one pair of jeans, my little fleece jacket, one jeans jacket to wear with the black pants, t-shirts (all black easier to match), one pair of black booties, my son's dress simply as well. Off we go!!!

I will also bring my little camera (the Nikon D40 is to big to be discreet and light) a Canon S95 that shoots beautifully in RAW format and my Cocotte Équipement messenger bag made in Montreal from recycled nylon ( I am in love with that bag) to carry the water bottles, the camera, the guide and the map. Speaking of maps, did you notice the silk map in the first picture ? This is a replicate of huge silk maps pilots had in the second world war. Silk does not get thorn or wet. This is a nice scarf as well...

I am ready and so much looking forward to that trip. I hope Paco will have time to come and fabric shop with me. Ole !

p.s. A Cocotte is pine cone...

I bought about 5 meters of black wool knit to sew two projects. The first one is a knock off this Marie St-Pierre dress (previously presented on the blog). The pattern is ready, I drew and I just need to cut the wool. The second one is this very interesting OOP Burda pattern that my generous friend Annette sent me. (She made 2 or 3 gorgeous tops with it, see the review here ). My plan was to sew the hooded top, add sleeves to it and make the hood in café au lait satin back crepe (100% silk).