le mani d'oro

I have been wearing my raincoat for at least two or three weeks. On and off since our spring plays a strange yo-yo game. One day it is 29C and the day after it is only 12C with close to freezing temperature during the night. Global mixing I call it instead of global warming.

The fabric was bought some six or seven years ago at Madeleine Soie et Laine, a store that no longer exists in Montreal... sadly. It was very easy to machine sew the raincoat but that fabric was though on my finger. The weaving is very dense, so passing the needle between fibres was difficult  when I had to hand sew the facing and sleeves hem. As all synthetic water proof fabric, it required low iron temperature as well as precaution so that I would not iron the waterproof coating applied on the wrong side.

I wanted to show pictures on me so that  you could see the lenght, that I judge perfect for my height. But I have this big cold and I look terrible. I seriously do not feel like playing model for DH.

So here is a series of pictures taken on Daisy who was kind enough to pause in the cold morning we had today (6C at 9:00 this morning).

Vogue 8934 - the collar is perfect to wear a scarf underneath, it's height protect from the wind

 The button holes wear done by a Pressage Unique on Beaubien street. They offer an excellent and quick service to tailors and sewist in Montreal. The button holes are all black except one that is light grey. Just for the fun of it.

Details of the hand painting I did on patches sewn on the raincoat

Vogue 8934 front view

Vogue 8934 back view

Vogue 8934 view of the lining

I had one button hole down in light grey

This pattern, designed by Marcy Tilton, is perfectly well drafted. All pieces fit with high precision. It was more than a pleasure to sew a garment using this pattern. Marcy, you are a true artist !!! The lines have style. Style and simplicity combined usually seduce me... and this is what that pattern offers.

I received lots of positive comments for this raincoat. Colleagues at work were surprise that I use wall paint for the little splashes. I confirm, wall paint does not run when exposed to rain.

Now I have to sew clothes for my son's graduation. It is taking place on June 19. Silk brocard is on the table !!!

In the retail industry, they prepare garments many months in advance. In my sewing world, I don't always feel like sewing summer clothes when it is -20 C or sewing wool jackets and wintercoats when it is 20 C outside or worst when it is 30 C and humid.

Since winter is very, very long and very, very cold this year, my raincoat will be ready on time. This must be a premiere in my life ;-)

Vogue 8934 view B

As I mentioned previously, I am working with Vogue 8934 pattern.This pattern has been designed by Marcy Tilton. It is a pure joy to work with this pattern. It is well drafted (all pieces fit wonderfully with one other ... it is not always the case)  and the sizing is excellent. Often Vogue patterns are too big for me if I follow their size chart. I cut size S which is for women usually taking vogue pattern size 8 or 10. According to their chart, I am a mix of both. Bigger in the upper body because of my wide shoulders and wide upper back compare to my waist and narrow hips. As I planned, I took off 8 cm of the initial lenght. It is now 96 cm long.

Vogue 8934 view A

I had a very precise idea in mind when I planned that project. Starting on view A, I wanted to use laser cut stencils and paint words on the appliqué (patches) pieces and play with that concept. In the back I would have wrote "Made In" and for the button hole patches would have formed the word J A P A N ...  but the two types of paint I tried were running. And the words were not presentable..  sadness in my heart.












I seriously wanted to finish this project by the end of Easter weekend. Instead of trying 2-3 other types of paint and spending lots of money for an idea that did not work. I decided on playing around with a mid size paint brush like the ones you use to paint your home.

Donna Karan dress

I had seen a very nice dress by Donna Karan with a large brush stroke type of pattern on a hip. So I decided to give it try. 


I like the patterns I have created on the patches. Once dry I finished them with my overlock machine. My project is getting together nicely. The shell is finished, the lining is also done and I am now hemming the bottom of the raincoat.

Speaking of lining. I often start by sewing the lining, it allows me to verify the fit as it can semi-play the role of a toile/muslin. For this very loose fitting raincoat fitting was no issue, but it is nice to try the fit and lenght before cutting the fashion fabric. Starting with the lining gives me this impression that my project is going faster. It is totally psychological, but I feel more encouraged when I start by the lining. We all have our little tips.

So here are pictures of my project. Today, I have to finish the hem, sew the collar and the front band and voilà !! I have not decided on sewing patches in the button hole area like on view A. I have to see first the garment with the front band.

 The lining is sewn in a Sevenberry quilting cotton made in Japan. For the sleeves, I used left over of man jacket lining to facilitate putting on and off the raincoat.The quilting cotton would not be smooth enough and it would stick on a wool jacket for example.

I forgot to mention that view A is not lined and that view B has a lining pattern. Si I used pattern pieces from both views and I mixed the instructions of both views. The back lining is cuton fold and you create the vent by sewing a fold at the bottom and a partial seam at the top of the back


 The global view of the back lining gives this result. The fabric is great for a lining or a PJ, but it is way too busy for a dress...  in my point of view of course.


View A and B have pockets. Marcy Tilton designed them with front and back part in the same fabric as the raincoat shell. I used the quilting cotton for the front part and added a neat band to hide the pattern when my hand is in the pocket.It is nicer when I put my hand in the packet and it is less bulky. Here is a series  pictures illustrating the pocket.

The band is 5 cm wide.

Marcy makes secure the pocket with a little seam on the top through all layers.

Peaking inside a little

Peaking inside a little more

 Sewing through this fabric by hand is rather difficult. To ease my work, I attached the lining to the hem band BEFORE sewing the band to the raincoat. You see in magenta all my thread marking. I mark all pattern religiously. Except the water-repellent fabric to avoid piercing it to much. I mark it with wax paper instead. Pressing, marking and basting are done with lots of attention my sewing room.

Ajouter une légende

Now ready for a weekend breakfast and the raincoat will be finished by the end of the day.  See you later.

Here are 2 bad pictures taken with my phone. This is a fun project.

This winter has been very cold and snowy in eastern Canada. This morning the thermometer was still  around -10C. Though I have doubts that spring will one day appear at our door, well history has proven that even the most difficult winters eventually end.

In that perspective, I am starting this weekend a new project... At the same time as I am working on my Vogue 8333 jacket. During long projects I always need to start shorter ones so that I get encouraged by finished garments.

So here is a sneak peak of the fabric used for this new raincoat. The lining is made in a quilting cotton from Sevenberry. I bought it many moons ago at Madeleine Soie et Laine, a Montreal store that closed it's door 3-4 years ago unfortunately. The raincoat fabric is a fine textured polyester also bought at the same store.

Quilting cotton used as lining from Sevenberry

Raincoat fabric in polyester is as a nice crisp and enough body

For this project I am using the Marcy Tilton Vogue 8934 pattern.


 
 In her blog, Marcy precises that the lenght of the coat as show on the model is not the one she designed. The coat should be worn mid-calf.

Here is the exact text she posted on her blog: "Take the photos on the pattern envelope with a grain of salt.  The models are GIANTS, AMAZONS, over 6 feet tall.  I am 5'6" and the coat hits me mid calf, not too short, not too long.  I think that the mid knee length on the models is too short, at that length the bell shape looks a bit odd...so I cropped the photos to give a clearer idea, and you can see photos of me wearing my own version below."

Well I am 5'4" and I am afraid that a raincoat with a bell shape that goes down to mid-calf will make me look short and squashed. I will take 7-8 cm of the length. With a skirt and flat shoes, it will be cuter. All apologizes to the designer for not respecting her design. I intend on sewing model A with the back seam and the contrast patches. Made in Japan is the theme and word cloud is the mood. I will be testing paint on my fabric and play around with that concept.

Happy Saturday !

Je n'étais pas du tout satisfaite des photographies de mon manteau Burda 8017 mises en ligne précédemment. Elles me semblaient fades et peu saturées en couleur en raison de l'heure du jour où elles ont été prises. J'en mets donc de toutes nouvelles prises hier à la maison. Mon conjoint mérite des remerciements pour cette séance productive. Je sais qu'il déteste prendre ce type de photos et il a accepté de me consacrer une bonne heure. Comme il gagne sa vie comme photographe reporter nature, je comprends son manque d'intérêt à photographier des vêtements.

The pictures already posted of my Burda 8017 winter coat were lacking contrast and saturation. I jumped on the occasion of having my DH at home to take pictures of a few garments I recently sewn.

Voilà ! 

Test lumière et exposition - Lets test light and aperture

		Avant de prendre les photos discutons du concept ;-)   - Before shooting anything, let's talk about the objectives ;-) Oups buttons not all snaped - oups un bouton de défait

Vue de côté - Side view

Pause rigolade - Lets goof a bit !

Oh the magnetic buttons are not that good - Oups les boutons magnétiques ne sont pas géniaux

DH is suggesting to raise the sealing to make a real studio - humm vivement un plafond de 3.2 mètres comme dans une vrai studio

Le col monte très haut, parfait pour l'hiver Montréalais - The collar is high and perfect for Montreal's winter.

Lots of latitude for movements - Tout l'espace voulu pour mes grandes enjambées !

Sneak peek of my funny dress this will be in my next post - Un aperçu de ma robe d'inspiration Marie St-Pierre... plus de détails prochainement

BURDA 8017 
 
Today we have one of those perfect winter days. Not too cold, sunny and no wind. I had the time this morning to go cross country skiing in the Laurentians. Perfection, I tell you, the weather was ideal for winter sports.

Before going for a short walk in the after noon, DH took the time to photograph my coat. I have been wearing it for over one week to go to work. I could have repressed it. The single layer in the middle "ruffles"  after being wet with snow. Oh in my point of view, this is nothing to fuss about.

As a reminder, this is Austrian boiled wool in burned orange lined with kasha lining and lamb wool. I am currently working on an inside vest made with wind breaker fabric and wool. I will wear it during colder days. The wind breaker is a gift from my friend Mary Beth.

Here are some pictures I like:







Ce matin, j'ai profité de cette journée d'hiver parfaite pour filer vers les Laurentides et faire une petite randonnée de ski de fond. Un temps merveilleux, je vous dis.  -5 oC, ensoleillé avec des conditions de neige idylliques. 

En revenant à la maison, mon conjoint m'a accordé un petit 15 minutes photographiques afin que je puisse montrer mon nouveau manteau Burda. Je l'adore. Il est léger et assez chaud pour être porté jusqu'à -10oC. Je l'ai doublé en kasha et laine d'agneau. Je travaille également à la confection d'une petite veste intérieur en laine et tissu coupe vent. Ce dernier est un cadeau de mon amie Mary Beth.

Comme j'ai porté mon manteau des jours où il neigeait, la zone à simple épaisseur de laine bouilli frise un peu. Je n'ai pas pris le temps de la presser à nouveau et vous avez donc mon manteau au naturel après plus d'une semaine à m'accompagner au travail. Un bonheur ce manteau. J'espère que l'hiver sera long afin de le porter durant beaucoup de belle journée hivernale.

For the past 3 weeks, I was busy getting everything ready for Christmas (that means rushing to have 3 muslins done for my little sister). Now that all parties are over... well until new year's eve, I can sew a little for me.

This is what my Burda 8017 coat looks like today. I simply have to attach the lining and sew the oversize snaps. After that, I will enjoy !

Comme j'ai consacré les trois derniers semaines aux préparatifs de Noël, j'ai peu cousu pour moi. J'ai prix le temps de monter 3 toiles pour ma petite soeur et aujourd'hui, j'avance mon manteau. Il ne me reste qu'à coudre la doublure au manteau et à installer les boutons pressions géants. Ensuite, j'aurai un nouveau compagnon pour l'hiver. J'ai très hâte !!

 

Marking is a long  process, but it always pays

It is rare that I sew at night during the week. I am am always afraid of making mistakes when I am tired. The only exception is cutting fabric. I takes less skills but still the same level of concentration. Plus the sound of the scissors on the table is relaxing and zen, it is great before going bed...  but still it does not put me to bed. ;-)

Il est rare pour moi de coudre le soir la semaine. J'ai toujours peur de faire une erreur stupide et irréversible. La seule étape qui fait exception demeure celle de la coupe des pièces du vêtement. La coupe demande moins d'habilité que d'autres étapes, mais autant de concentration. Le bruit des ciseaux sur la table est relaxant et zen...  C'est parfait avant d'aller au lit, sans pour autant m'endormir. Il ne faut pas mélanger les deux.


One other step that pleases me greatly is the marking step. It is often perceived as being boring. In my opinion it is so essential in order to have a strait and balanced garment. I feel more secure when I mark the important lines (centre front, centre back, waist line, bust level etc.). For this coat pattern the placement lines on the bottom part require to be well traced, or else I will not be able to superimposed the top part at the right place These days I am reading Claire Shaeffer's books on Couture techniques. The next marking I will be doing is marking the seam lines, to achieve a more couture result.

L'autre étape que je trouve cruciale demeure celle du marquage des pièces de patrons. Je le fais avec patience et application. Je considère ce marquage comme essentiel à la réalisation d'un vêtement droit et bien balancé. En fait, je me sens à l’abri de certaines erreurs lorsque je marque le plus de lignes importantes possibles, comme le centre dos, le centre devant, la ligne de taille ou la hauteur du buste. Pour ce patron, les lignes les plus importantes à marquer sont sans contredit les lignes de placement de la partie supérieure sur le bas. Sans cela, je ne vois pas comment on peut réaliser un vêtement réussi. Ces jours-ci, je lis l'ouvrage de Claire Shaeffer sur les techniques de haute couture. Le prochaine type de marquage que j'expérimenterai, c'est celui des lignes de couture afin d'obtenir un résultat vraiment couture.  



Since this coat is made in a top and bottom part sewn together, it is not a mistake if it looks short at this step. I am starting all the pad stitching required to get a perfectly and softly rolling collar.

I don't know if you notice, but I cut the size 36 and it fits much, much better.

Comme ce manteau se compose d'un partie supérieure et d'une partie inférieure, il est normal que le manteau soit encore court à cette étape-ci. Maintenant, j'entame le montage du col avec tous les points tailleurs nécessaires à l'obtention d'un col roulant avec souplesse et perfection.


Je ne sais pas si vous pouvez remarquer la différence de taille, mais j'ai taillé le 36. Je trouve l'ajustement beaucoup plus en lien avec mes objectifs.

What I like about that future coat: the colour and the sofness of the wool .


Ce que j'aime de ce futur manteau, la couleur et la texture merveilleuse de cette laine.

Today, I paper fit my Burda winter coat (pattern number 8017 which I think is OOP) and started to cut the muslin. Since this is a long term project and I really need clothes, I also cut this Burda World of Fashion skirt (2010-11-113).

My dear friend Annette sent my a balanced of her magnificent Italian wool. She initially bought it at Emma one sock and made a great top with (as shown on the picture). I felted the fabric in the washing machine by using a very short hot water cycle. It gave the fabric such a nice hand feel (not that it did not already have one...). The wool became denser without loosing it's drape.

It was more then a pleasure to lay out the pattern on the fabric. This skirt pattern is making me so enthusiastic, the colours are dense and joyful, the sun was shinning in the kitchen... well life was good. I am certain that the skirt will be out of this world.

This fabric goes really well with olive green. It makes me want to buy those boots from John Fluevog. Don't you think those two would look great together?















Now I have to figure out how to lined this pattern... ho oh ! Burda has such strangely written instructions.

Back to work now... see you soon.

Anne