dimanche 2 juin 2013

Veste DKNY terminée ! DKNY Jacket Finished

 
This first part is in English only

In my last post, I showed details of the bias tape used to ornate the lining. Gail from the blog My Fabrication was asking me details regarding the piped lining.

Since I am not the best pedagogue when it comes to sewing, I will try to explain how I proceed to ornate the lining in my jackets.

1.  In make about 2 meters long of bias tape (fabric cut at 45o and sewn together to obtain a cylinder). Usually I work with 4 cm wide tape. When folded in two, is has a final width of 2cm. Here is the tape before it is sew to the lining.
bias tape 2cm wide
2. Once the lining pieces are sewn together at the shoulder seam only or all sewn together (as you prefer) this is when I add the bias tape.
The bias tape is added to the RIGHT side of the lining. Raw edges of the lining and the tape are put together as show on the drawing. The tape's fold goes toward the centre of the back and front pieces. You baste at 1 cm for the edge.

3. Then you can attache the lining to the front and neck facing as you would usually do. Right side of facing and right of lining are put together, with the bias tape sandwiched in between. Raw edges of lining, bias and facing are all together. Sew and press the seam. By putting the seam allowances towards the lining, the piping or bias tape will be over the facing (made of fashion fabric). The final width of the tape will be of 5mm. Just enough to add a nice touch.

Here are more pictures:


Bias tape over facing

Bias tape is installed all around the lining/facing seam
Detail of the tape around the back facing

Paco Peralta used a nice technique that gives an even more professional look. Tutorial here

The following pictures are taken on a jacket Paco made for the very lucky me !!




After running all over town for a tailor who would make the buttonholes for me. I finally obtain the address of a professional shop that sews buttonholes and press jacket or pants for most of the tailors in Montreal. Here the final result of my jacket with the buttonholes and of the Burda skirt previously made here.

Après avoir couru la ville à la recherche d'un tailleur qui daigne bien coudre mes boutonnières, j'ai enfin appris que ces derniers ne se donnent plus la peine de les faire eux même. Ils envoient leurs vestes terminées chez Pressage Unique. Je ferai un petit article sur eux bientôt. Pressage unique coud les boutonnière et presse à la perfection vestes et pantalons pour hommes. Voici des photos de ma veste et de la jupe taillée dans la laine Valentino. Il s'agit d'un patron Burda déjà réalisé ici. Petit rappel la veste est un patron Vogue OOP 2844




Look at those beautiful buttonholes !!!  Thank you Pressage Unique

Welt pocket in this thin wool was very difficult to sew... 
Gail if you have more question, do not hesitate to email me. Next project, the Ralph Rucci pants and a blouse. I need blouses. If you need inspiration look at My Fabrication. Gail sews amazing blouses.

Prochain projet, les pantalons Ralph Rucci dans cette belle laine et une blouse. J'ai tellement besoin de blouses. Si vous chercher une excellente source d'inspiration pour vos projets de blouse, lisez le blogue de Gail : My Fabrication. Elle crée des pièces magnifiques.

4 commentaires:

RhondaBuss a dit...

This jacket is going to look sensational on you. Just promise not to beat yourself up for not getting it finished sooner :)Such a great piece.

SEWN a dit...

It's gorgeous. Love the topstitching. Enjoy wearing it!

Ann's Fashion Studio a dit...

It was well worth the time ~ it is beautiful.
I love the pockets and the bias tape trim is well done.

a little sewing a dit...

Exquisite! the beauty is in the details!