I don't know how you proceed to correct your pattern from muslin adjustments but this is how I have learned it with Elisabeth Dionne, my favourite sewing teaching of all time.


1. I mark over the pins with marker on muslin or chalk on fashion fabric.


2. Do it on both sides


3. If you work with a muslin you can flatten it well on your work plan, superimpose your pattern on top (don't forget that seam allowance are in extra on the side) and retrace the new line on paper.




4. If you work with fashion fabric, bast over the chalk lines, rip the seam in that zone, lay it flat, correct the paper and then sew on the new seam line indicted by your contrasting baste line.

5. After enlarging the hip area and making the bust zone narrower this is what my pattern looked like. I took off 3.6 cm in the bust area and added 2.4 at the hips.






















6. The back of the dress also required corrections. In my point of view the sway back correction is a tricky one ,when the back line is initially curved. Over lapping the paper to shorted the back accentuates the back curve. You then have to straiten it or reshape it similarly to its original curve. Don't forget to redraw the grain line in the lower part of your dress (under the correction) and straiten your dart




The final look of my pattern pieces is the following one.


Now before cutting the fashion fabric I have to decide if I use the underlining - Hong Kong finish in one step as explained here by Laura. Since my dress is fitted, the bottom part at least should be like that. The top will be different. Probably with a regular technique that consist on attaching the lining to the facing.