le mani d'oro

It is with humility that I am showing the results of my lingerie sewing projects. I mentioned previously that my learning curve when it comes to elastics and tiny curves is very slow. But, I am progressing... this is good news;-) Be merciful with me

This technical drawing if from Orange Lingerie and they own the copyright for this image

This picture show the nylon tricot fused to the polyester/Lycra fabric

Detail of the power bar and my wonky top stitching - Detail de la "power bar" ou bar de soutien et des mes surpiqûres imparfaites ;-)

Lace used on the back band and strap elastic - Dentelle utilisée pour la bande arrière et élastique de la bretelle...  mignon la couleur sorbet

Detail of the cotton crotch lining - une petite pièce de tricot de coton rend la culotte comfortable en couvrant la couture de la fourche

Pattern - Fabric - Notions 
Patterns: Malborough bra from Orange Lingerie - Jalie 2568 for the lace panties

Fabric: Polyester and Lycra knit and lace are form Merckweardigh on Etsy - I bought a kit for one bra and one pair of panties - Their kits are generous enough to make 2 bras and 2 panties. The kit includes the Nylon tricot to stabilize the knit.

Notions: All elastics were part of the Merckweardigh kit. The kit had enough elastic for 1 bra and 1 pair of panties.
The fuchsia bra closure is from Bra Makers Supply. The one included in the kit was white. I did not like that.

 I love !!! Bra closures from BMS

For those of you who do not know, I spend lots of time cycling the beautiful roads in Quebec. During one summer I can cycle up to 3000 km. On top of keeping me in an excellent shape, this activity also contributes in relaxing me from work. But the negative effect of this activity is of course that it keeps me away from my sewing machine. I guess that I cannot have it all.

Up to now, I never took the time to sew my own cycling clothes. I waited for Jeanne and Emilie from Jalie to design a great pattern that we can use as cycling top or cycling dress. This year they launched the Anne-Marie Tanks and Dress . So far I test-drive one dress and two tops. Lets start by the fitted tank top.

Jalie Tank Top 3463

Pour ceux qui ne le savent pas déjà, l'été je couds peu car je sillonne les routes du Québec à la recherche de beaux paysages à croquer. En une saison de vélo, je réussi à parcourir environ 3000 km sur nos routes de campagne. Cette activité me permet de garder un esprit sain, dans un corps sain.

Jusqu'à maintenant, je ne m'étais jamais donnée la peine de coudre mes propres vêtements de vélo. Je n'avais pas trouvé de patron convenant à mes goûts. Un des nouveaux patrons de Jalie change totalement mon optique. Jeanne et Émilie ont crée un patron de hauts et robe (modèle Anne-Marie #3463) pratique pour le vélo et la course à pied. Deux activités physiques que j'adore pratiquer.

Snug & Speed
When you sew Jalie patterns, you should follow and trust their size chart. By doing so, the fit of your garments will always be right and faithful to the pattern picture. Their patterns are designed to give enough ease so that your garments are comfortable...  if you use the right fabric of course.

When it comes to road cycling, it is another game. If you go for long rides and you want to keep a good speed, you need clothes that are snug or very fitted. Loose garments will slow you down since they act as a parachute. Your clothes will create resistance to your movement instead of being aerodynamic. For this top, I cut one size smaller than I would usually do for a life style garment. I had test the Anne-Marie dress in my regular size and it was not close enough to my body. Plus, when you bend down on you bike, you want your top to hold your bust in place. For that as well, you need a fitted tank top and built-in bra of the same size.

Jalie Tank Top 3463 - one size smaller than my regular one

Les patrons Jalie font figure de leader dans mon palmarès des patrons offrant le meilleur ajustement. Ils offrent aussi la charte de tailles la plus fidèle. Si vous suivez leurs indications, vous obtiendrez un vêtement impeccable, fidèle à la photo de l'enveloppe. Leurs patrons offrent l'aisance nécessaire à votre confort, et cela sans excès. Cette régle prévaut si vous utilisez le bon tissu, bien entendu.

En vélo de route, cette règle ne doit pas nécessairement être suivie à la lettre. Tout vêtement non ajusté jouera rapidement le rôle d'un parachute ralentissant votre mouvement. Vous perdrez vite votre énergie à combattre inutilement la résistance créer par vos fringues. Jouer gagnant et portez des vêtements ajustés, voire même très ajustés. Dans le cas d'un haut de ce type, le soutien intégré vous procurera un meilleur support s'il est aussi très ajusté.

No bags, but lots of little things to carry
Often I will go for rides that are up to 80 or even 100 km in one day. The extra tubes, the compress gaz cylinders, the tools and my car key are in a tiny bag hanging below my saddle. The rest, my phone, my apple, my banana, my sandwich, my money, my id cards, etc. all go in the back pocket of my garment. I need a well designed back pocket.  Tennis players or joggers will also love to have a back pocket for balls or a phone. In a way, ;-) we all need a back pocket... even for a walk with your beloved one.

Jalie 3463 back view with my tube and phone

Souvent, les sorties à vélo se font sur des distances entre 80 et 100km. La mini sacoche de selle de mon vélo contient tout pour réparer une crevaison et ajuster une pièces de base. Ainsi la chambre à air, les mini cylindres de gaz comprimé, mes outils et ma clé d'auto y sont rangés. Le reste, soit ma banane, ma pomme, mon sandwich, mon téléphone et j'en passe se rangent dans ma poche de dos. J'aime les poches de dos logeables...  il va sans dire.

One spot on my back but two pockets
The Anne-Marie (Jalie 3463) Fitted Tank Top will have a different width of pocket according to the size you will cut. The original pocket is simple and efficient. If you cut a size U to FF, you might want to sew a vertical seam so that the pocket offers two compartments. If you cut any sizes between N and T and you need lots of carrying space, you might want to double the pocket as I did. The tutorial for the double pocket will come soon on my blog. Meanwhile, here is a close up of it.

You might have noticed that the center piece of my tank is slightly transparent. I used firm power net to give excellent support and to offer maximum wicking. The heat and sweat will be pushed outside of my garment.

The built-in bra is also made with power net.



Le patron de robe et de hauts Anne-Marie donnera une poche de dos de largeur différente selon la taille que vous utliserez. Pour les tailles entre U et FF, il se peut qu'une couture verticale soit nécessaire pour créer deux poches dorsales plutôt qu'une seule très grande. C'est à vous de juger une fois le vêtement terminé. Si vous cousez les autres tailles et qu'un seule poche n'est pas suffisante, vous opterez alors pour ma petite transformation maison:  la poche double. Je mettrai bientôt en ligne un didacticiel indiquant comment la réussir en un tour de main.

Sur cette photo, vous remarquerez peut être que la bande du centre dos offre une certaine transparence. J'ai utlisé du power net pour stabiliser le dos, avoir un bon support et obtenir un bon coéfficient d'évacuation de la chaleur et de la transpiration durant l'effort. J'adore ce tissu !! Le soutien incorporé est aussi fait dans ce tissu.

The first one of a long series 
After a few road tests, I can confirm that this pattern is perfect for cycling and running. It is fun and easy to sew. The look is up to my standards. Jeanne's sewing techniques are as usual easy, fun and efficient.

So far, I made one fitted one and one with the flair pelplum.

Après avoir testé ce premier haut à la course à pied  et en vélo, je confirme que le design est impeccable et adorable. J'en veux des tonnes! Il est si facile à coudre. Les techniques de Jalie sont amusantes, rapides et efficaces. Quoi demandé de mieux?

La même journée j'ai aussi taillé la version plus évasée à l'ourlet que je porte uniquement en course à pied.

The skirt is Jalie 2796

Fabric and notions for the polka dot top
Pattern:  Jalie 3464
Fabric: 50 cm of red and black polka dot polyester and Lycra from Suzie Spandez in Montreal - 50 cm of power net form Club Tissus in Laval
Notions: 80 cm of underwear elastic for the built-in bra. I use 1 inch fluffy elastic.

Pattern corrections 
I added 1cm all around the armcye so that the upper back piece would be wider and that the top would go higher in the back and under my arms.
I also go one size down at the waist to follow my natural body lines

The first garment to be sewn with my new machine is finished and it was worn for the first time last Friday by my gorgeous friend Florence. As I mentioned in my previous post, I used the Vogue pattern # 8358 as a base. This pattern is designed for knits, but I used it with a woven fabric that has 5% of stretch. I gave 1 cm of ease at the bust, waist and hips. The rest of the work was done by the Lycra. The dress needed to stay in place.

Custom fitted dress made using V 8358 as a base. The happy man on the picture is her fiancé, Brian Ypperciel, the famous Montreal based fashion photographer Florence O Durand is an also famous Montreal based fashion stylist

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