le mani d'oro

Bekeley bra patten from Orange Lingerie - panties are self draft

Lingerie  - one real passion
In my life, sewing is a passion that goes beyond the hobby status. When you get to wear the fruits of your hobby, the practical dimension of it changes the perspective. I don't only sew to relax, but also to create and wear clothes that are really me. Sewing is a form of expression. May be not a form of art, as I consider my self more of an artisan.

Bra making came into my life a few years ago as I took a sewing class with my friend Carmen. She was visiting Boston and registered to the excellent class Norma Loehr (Orange Lingerie) now teaches in many locations in the US. I joined the class and my first steps into bra making were painful. I had such a bad and old machine, which was totally unsuitable for sewing lace. After sewing 2-3 bras and a major change of sewing machine, I was hooked. Seriously hooked, I even dream about it from time to time.

My professional life involves very long work hours and one of the best ways to relax at night is to plan my next bra project. I feel empowered by this activity. Collecting images for my bra making mood board, choosing the pattern, adjusting it, cutting the fabric, sew the bra and wearing at the end the fruit of my imagination just fills me with pride. This pride is even stronger than when I sew clothes. Funny, since I am the only one who sees my DIY lingerie.

The last set I have sewn is called Provence. The name came from the lavender lace I used for the project.

So far, I made bras either with the Malborough or the Boylston bra patterns both from Orange Lingerie. This time I tried the Berkeley.

Berkeley bra in lavender stretch lace

Description of the set
This pattern has the advantage of being designed for stretch lace. You may add an internal power bar for more support.Which I skipped. The lower cup piece is lined with stable fabric for more support and to keep your breast at the right place. As you see, the stretch lace is also used for the band. To stabilize the bridge, you also add a piece of nylon lining in that zone.

Finding panties that are pretty and comfortable is not always an easy task. So why not copying a pair I love ? Those are drafted using a lovely pair of Simon Pérèle. The result is not bad at all. I like the look and comfort wise, I barely feel them. Mission accomplished !

Lace panties inspired by a pair of Simone Pérèle

 For my next project, I  planned a long version of the Berkeley bra. After offering to sew a bra for Rose, my son's girlfriend, she selected this image on my Pinterest board. I drafted the pattern and I think it will work. The "muslin" version is cut. I simply have to sew it now. We shall see.
 Pattern  - Fabric- Notions

Voilà !

Boylston bra in cotton seersucker - pattern from Orange Lingerie

Boylston bra with two pairs of Montgomery briefs, both from Orange Lingerie

Inside back of the Montgomery brief.

Pattern and notions

Boylston bra from Orange Lingerie

Bras, I want more bras
I seems like bra making has taken all the space in my sewing world. I have to "force" my self to look at and sew other projects, or else, this is all I dream about. If I suffer of insomnia, no problem! I simply have to think about the lace, mesh, elastics, and lycra fabric and hop my brain leads me to bra wonderland. It puts me back to sleep and I dream of sewing beautiful lingerie all night long. But I don't only dream about, I sew a bit as well.  After finishing my last Malborough bra, I have sewn my first Watson bra. But this bra is not the subject of the present post.

Why the Boylston bra
After seeing Norma Loehr's samples of her most recent pattern, the Boylston bra, I knew that it would be for me. Balconnette and half cup are my two favourite style of bras. Most of the RTW bras I buy are in those two styles.

Before cutting expensive silk and laces, I wanted to make sure that the fit was fine for me. I assumed the 34 B would be perfect since this is the size I cut for the Malborough. I applied the same correction in the back, taking 1 cm off both sides of the back band. Bing !  The fit was right on. Well it was right on after, replacing the front strap. I had misplaced it and the bra was too big.

Boylston bra from Orange Lingerie

Une charmante obsession
J'ai l'impression d'être un peu obsédée par la confection de soutiens-gorge. Rien d'autre ne m'intéresse vraiment et je dois me "forcer" pour garnir ma garde-robe de nouveaux vêtements de ville. La nuit, si je souffre d'insomnie, facile de me rendormir. Lrsque ma tête erre dans le merveilleux monde de la dentelle, des tulles légères, des élastiques aux mille couleurs et de la mèche extensible. je laisse ma tête créer de la beauté et hop Morphée vient me cueillir afin de poursuivre une heureuse nuit de sommeil.

Ahhh le joli balconnet...
Après avoir vu les échantillons du dernier patron de Norma Loehr, le "Boylston bra", j'étais certaine que je l'aimerais. Les soutiens-gorge demi-buste et les balconnets ont la cote dans ma vie depuis mes premiers dessous mignons. Ils conviennent à la forme de mon torse et de mon sein. 

Avant de tailler de belles soies et des dentelles coûteuses, j'ai taillé la première version dans des retailles de coton et lycra. 

Comme la Malborough me faisait parfaitement en taille 34B, j'ai taillé la même grandeur pour celle-ci. Mis à part une petite erreur de placement de la bretelle, qui me donnait l'impression d'un soutif trop grand, l'ajustement était parfait. Tout comme pour la Malborough, j'ai retiré sur le patron papier, 1 cm de chaque côté à la bande de dos. Une bande de la bonne taille assure un excellent support et une mise en valeur de nos atouts.

Boylston bra from Orange Lingerie

As I said earlier, for this first Boylston bra, I did not want to cut expensive fabric. I then used left over fabric from a sleeveless blouse project I finished last summer. Well finished is not the right word. I have not done the buttonholes yet.

Comme je l'indiquais précédemment, pour cette première version, j'ai laissé les tissus coûteux de côté et j'ai mis à profit les retailles d'un projet de chemisier sans manche réalisé l'été dernier. Ce chemisier est orphelin de ses boutonnières et j'entends bien remédier à la situation sous peu. Sans presse puisque l'hiver, il ne me sera pas tellement utile. Je préfère les pulls de laine et ceux de cachemire aux cotons légers.

Butterick 4985

Boylston bra and Montgomery brief

Boylston bra and Montgomery brief

The back band is sewn with a double layer of power mesh in black. The double layer allows me to have a great finish inside as well as more support. I used 12mm elastic strapes in the back since that size seemed to correspond better to the size of the front part (made of fabric and narrow band elastic).

Boylston bra from Orange Lingerie

La bande arrière est confectionné à l'aide d'une double épaisseur de mèche extensible. Cette doublure me permet à la fois d'obtenir une finition impeccable à l'intérieur ainsi qu'un meilleur soutien. J'ai utilisé des bretelles élastiques de 12 mm. Elles me semblaient mieux convenir à la portion avant (en tissu) de la bretelle.

The brief 

Montgomery brief from Orange Lingerie

To complete the set, I have sewn an all mesh brief using the Montgomery pattern from Orange Lingerie as well. The front panel is made of a single layer and the back (with the center seam you see in transparency) is made of a double layer. This very well drafted pattern fits like a glove and it is invisible under your pants. No inelegant elastic cutting your cheek as you walk.


La culotte 
Une jolie culotte en mèche extensible complète l'ensemble. Fidèle à Orange Lingerie, j'ai utilisé leur génial patron Montgomery. Le panneau avant est fait d'un simple épaisseur de mèche et le derrière (avec la couture que l'on voit en transparence) est confectionné à double épaisseur. La couture au centre dos permet d'omettre l'inélégant élastique que nous scie la fesse et marque sous la pantalon. J'adore ce patron.


The following pictures allow you to better appreciate the pattern.

Les photos suivantes vous permettent de mieux apprécier les lignes du patron.

Montgomery brief - front pannel

Montgomery brief - back with the central seam

One modification
From the original sewing method, I decided to change how the waist elastic is sewn. Norma makes us sew the front part of the waist elastic on the front panel. Then we sew the back waist elastic to the back panel. The front and the back are united at the end by the side seam clearly visible in the following picture.

The thick seam at the waist is very uncomfortable for me.

For the last version in black, assembled the front and back at the sides before installing the waist elastic.

Montgomery brief  - wrong side

Une seule modification
Les instructions pour cette culotte indiquent de coudre en deux parties l'élastique de taille. Une partie à l'avant et une partie à l'arrière avant de coudre les côtés. Ainsi, la dernière couture, celle des côtés, est très épaisse en raison de la jonction des deux portions d'élastique. Il en résulte une culotte inconfortable. Je la porte quand même, mais j'ai hâte de la retirer le soir venu.

Afin de remédier à cet inconfort, j'ai cousu les coutures de côté avant d'installer l’élastique de taille. je vous suggère fortement cette technique.

Plus de photographies de mon ensemble rétro...  le tissu à mes yeux lui donne un look 1950's - More pictures of my retro looking set. I think that the cotton gives it a retro look.

Colour picture of B&W set

B&W picture of the B&W set. I had fun shooting those pix.

Pattern - Fabric - Notions 
Patterns: Boylston bra from Orange Lingerie -Montgomery for the mesh panties also from Orange Lingerie

Fabric: Cotton and Lycra woven fabric from Madeleine Soie et laine (no longer open) - Mesh from Club Tissus in Laval Quebec Canada - the bra lining fabric (not shown) is form Bra Makers Supply in Hamilton Ontario Canada (on line). I used their regular bra lining fabric available in white or black. 

Notions: All elastics, the closure and the bow were part of a Bra Makers Supply kit. I had enough elastic for 1 bra and 1 pair of panties. But my brief is a XS and I had to put two types of elastics to fisnish the waist line. Order more then one kit for a more uniform look.

It is with humility that I am showing the results of my lingerie sewing projects. I mentioned previously that my learning curve when it comes to elastics and tiny curves is very slow. But, I am progressing... this is good news;-) Be merciful with me

This technical drawing if from Orange Lingerie and they own the copyright for this image

This picture show the nylon tricot fused to the polyester/Lycra fabric

Detail of the power bar and my wonky top stitching - Detail de la "power bar" ou bar de soutien et des mes surpiqûres imparfaites ;-)

Lace used on the back band and strap elastic - Dentelle utilisée pour la bande arrière et élastique de la bretelle...  mignon la couleur sorbet

Detail of the cotton crotch lining - une petite pièce de tricot de coton rend la culotte comfortable en couvrant la couture de la fourche

Pattern - Fabric - Notions 
Patterns: Malborough bra from Orange Lingerie - Jalie 2568 for the lace panties

Fabric: Polyester and Lycra knit and lace are form Merckweardigh on Etsy - I bought a kit for one bra and one pair of panties - Their kits are generous enough to make 2 bras and 2 panties. The kit includes the Nylon tricot to stabilize the knit.

Notions: All elastics were part of the Merckweardigh kit. The kit had enough elastic for 1 bra and 1 pair of panties.
The fuchsia bra closure is from Bra Makers Supply. The one included in the kit was white. I did not like that.

 I love !!! Bra closures from BMS

Malborough bra samples all sewn by Norma. Des échantillons de soutiens-gorge Malborough - un patron génial

At the end of June, encouraged by Carmen (CarmencitaB), I enrolled into a bra making class in Boston.

The class is given by Norma Loehr from Orange Lingerie. Norma is a very skillful seamstress as well as an excellent teacher. She teaches the class in her quiet and lovely studio in Boston. The studio can accommodate a small group of four students. This is the perfect size to form a private group with three of your friends.

À la fin de juin, encouragée par Carmen du blog CarmencitaB, je me suis inscrite à un cours de confection de lingerie. Le cours est donnée par la charmante et douce Norma Loehr de chez Orange Lingerie. En plus d'être une couturière accomplie, Norma est une excellente pédagogue. Elle offre son cours à son studio de Boston, un havre de paix où l'on apprend à manier la dentelle, le tricot et la soie. Le studio de Norma peut accueillir jusqu'à quatre élèves à la fois, une taille de groupe parfaite pour organiser un groupe privé.

My old sewing machine transported in a Pelican Case in the isle leading to Norma's studio - Ma veille machine dans son étui Pelican dans l'allée menant au studio de Norma. Il y a aussi une boîte de cupcakes.

Enrolling into a fantastic class
After enrolling via email, Norma sends us a list of articles to read about bra making. From fabric to elastic, those readings do help preparing your self to the class. She also asks for body measurements and she has the right pattern size ready for each of us when we arrive on the first morning.

She starts by a fitting session with Malborough bras made in all possible sizes. The 34B was the perfect match for me. Then, Norma guides us step by step into bra making. We all make our first bra during the first day. The learning curve was steep for me though I have been sewing for 25 years. It seems that when it comes to bra making, I am a slow learner. I have to admit that my poor old Janome machine was not up to the beat. Not that Janome are not good machines !!  She is only old and not being nice to very thin and delicate fabric.



Une fois inscrite au cours via courriel, Norma nous envoie une liste de lectures disponible sur son blog. Des tissus aux élastiques, les informations s'y trouvant aident considérablement à la préparation pour le cours. Norma nous demande également de lui envoyer nos mensurations afin de d'imprimer la bonne taille de patron pour nous.

Une fois sur place, le cours débute par une séance d'essayage. Il y a là toutes les tailles possibles de son soutien-gorge Malborough. Ensuite, le vrai travail s'entame étape par étape. Norma nous guide brillamment à travers toutes les étapes de la confection d'un premier soutien-gorge. En ce qui me concerne, ciel, je semble avoir été lente à comprendre. J'ai fait toutes les erreurs possibles en assemblant ce premier soutien-gorge Malborough. Il était horrible et très croche, mais qu'à cela ne tienne, le suivant était portable et les prochains seront mignons à souhait. 

 Lunch brake

After a very dense morning, Norma tooks us to a local café where they serve excellent vegeterian food and certainly the best rosemary fries in the world.

Après une matinée bien remplie et dense en nouveautés, Norma nous sort luncher dans un café du quartier ou l'on sert d'excellents repas végétariens et des frites au romarin simplement renversantes.

Carmen, Norma and Leisa

   

Leisa, Carmen and I on Instagram

The afternoon flies like lightning. Each step that bra making involves is new and it requires a great deal of attention. It felt like the hours had run a marathon on the clock. I finished my first bra on time to fit it. I transposed the corrections on the paper pattern pieces so that on the second day I can sew a wearable bra that fits me to perfection.

The fitting session makes me realize that I had been wearing my bra's band too loosely. Norma indicated us that no more than 2 fingers should fit in the back when you stretch the band.

L'après-midi s'est envolée à la vitesse de l'éclair. Comme chaque étape de la confection d'un soutien-gorge est nouvelle pour moi. Elles requièrent toute mon attention et ma concentration. Malgré ma non-collaborative partenaire, Miss Janome, j'ai réussi mon soutif à temps pour l'essayage. Les corrections sont ensuite transposées sur les pièces en papier

Cette session d'ajustement m'a fait réaliser à quel point je porte les bandes de mes soutiens-gorge trop lâches. Norma nous indique que pas plus de deux doigts doivent s'insérer lorsque l'on étire la bande au centre dos. 


Day two at Orange Lingerie



On the second day, we cut our second bra, Ze sexy black one, with our perfectly fitting Malborough pattern. Have I mentioned it enough, this bra pattern is amazing !!!  The fit, the support, the look, it is pure perfection. I love it.

So the second bra is cut and we start sewing it again with the excellent instructions Norma is giving us at each step. The most challenging one for me is basting the underwire channel precisely on the cup's seam. I certainly need more practice on this one.

Nevertheless, at the end of a fully busy second day, I had a wearable bra, that looks nice (that is if you do not inspect it too close ;-). I like it, it is my first one and imperfection can be charming.



La deuxième journée commence en lion. Munie d'un patron Malborough sur mesure pour moi, je taille mon deuxième soutien-groge, la veuve noire ;-) Ce patron est dessiné à la perfection, le soutien, la ligne, le confort, tout y est. 

Avec ma petite vielle Miss Janome et ses caprices en séries, j'ai tout de même réussi à terminer mon deuxième soutien-gorge. Je le qualifierai de portable, mignon et imparfait. Je l'aime, il s'agit du premier d'une longue série.

Norma nous guide tout au long des étapes. Elle a une patience d'ange et elle demeure une source incroyable de connaissances.

TA DA !! 
 

MY first Malborough bra

Thank you Norma, you give an amazing class that is worth every penny!

Merci Norma, vous enseignez un cours qui vaut son pesant d'or!

Carmen on the left with Norma Loehr the lingerie magician and her Brompton bike <3 br="">

I forgot the cupcakes we had together.