le mani d'oro: Burda

One pattern, two dresses

For the past six to seven years Burda Style magazine has been my main source of sewing patterns. I find their style to be up to date with current fashion trends and mostly they correspond to my taste. The ones I have sewn where very flattering.

The October 2012 number is one of my favorite. Though it was issued 5 years ago, many patterns featured in it are still trendy or "à la mode" as we say in French. The following dress pattern had been in my mind since then. Often, I was looking at it imagining the dress in wool for winter or in cotton for summer. I liked the cowl neckline, the gathered side and the fact that the front is cut on bias. The pattern has texture and movement and yet this is a classic dress.

Burda 2012-10-118A

Those shoes, I tried to find them on the net... but did not succeed...

Here is the technical drawing for this dress, taken on the Burda Web site

Burda 2012-10-118 technical drawing

While measuring all pattern pieces and after correcting the hip curve, waist size and length of the back ( I have a swayback); I was under the impression that the dress would fit like a glove... and it did.

Denim is not only for jeans ...
The first version I have sewn is in dark denim with a grayish wrong side, similar to the fabric used for old 1950's jeans. Here are the piece placed on the fabric.

pattern pieces Burda 2012-10-118.

As you notice the front piece (top right) is curved. The top part is on grain line while the bottom ends up on bias. This is a tiny detail that really pleases me. As you gather the left side, the piece straighten up. It also features a self facing neckline.

Since the front piece was to big to cut on my regular cutting table (the kitchen island) which measure 75x180 cm or 30x72 inches, I decided to cut on the floor... My back does not think that this is a good practice... This is a nice, non stretch, medium weight denim I bought at Tonitex in Montreal. It was 7.65 $ a meter. With the zip, thread and taxes, I have a 10$ dress. No made in China clothing beats that! I haven't asked DH to take official picture of this creation. The only pictures I have are the ones taken at work during an award ceremony prior to the graduation party we hold every year.

At work wearing the denim version of the Burda 2012-10-118 dress.

The students, Sophie and Pierre-Luc look so serious ;-) and I have a goofy mouth... typical of speech-pictures. I let the neck line flow naturally. It is large and can be place in many many ways.

Front view of the Burda 2012-10-118 dress with Sophie and Pierre-Luc.

I love those two students, their energy, joy and commitment enlighten all moments I had the chance to work with them in the past 5 years. Sophie is now working as junior architect and Pierre-Luc is still pursuing is master in landscape architecture. On that they I had gorgeous royal blue suede shoes that add a touch of fun to this serious outfit.

A passion for red
I like to wear red clothes and shoes, I wonder why I do not sew clothes in that color more often. The second version of this lovely dress was sewn in 100% Italian linen. This linen was left form a previous red dress project sewn some 8 years ago. Time flied and I realized looking at pictures that my hair was a little less silver back then. The piece of fabric left form the first dress was a little small, so I made the dress 5 or 6 cm shorter then the denim one. It was the only way to fit that funky front piece on it. I also forgot about the sleeves, I had enough for them... well barely but I could fit sleeves that would have been above the elbow. I change my mind at the last minute. And still kept the shorter length.

Burda 2012-10-118

Funny I wear the same shoes I did in 2009 with the other red dress. I love them and since I am very careful with my shoes, they still look new... they might be out of style, but I like them. I am wearing the dress with a silver brooch holding the cowl neckline in place.

The back is super simple. Not fuss here

Ta da ! My expression on the following picture says it all. I am in love with that dress.

Not bad for a 50 years old woman.

I also wear the dress with flat beige suede Frye sandals or black heals.

Voilà, that's it for today. I have to review polka dots pants next. I found one funny Moschino cotton to make them. My boss thinks that they are a bit psychedelic, but I don't

haaaa yes, one last picture goofing around with my friend Josée's Easter island statue... she has an amazing back yard, I just cannot stay serious too long.