le mani d'oro

There was almost one year of silence between now and my last post on the XMas dress form. There was no inspiration to write and lots of activities others than being in front of my screen. I was very active practising sports and I have sewn a great deal as well.  Here are pictures of of the project I finished in the last months.

This is dress is one of the my favourites. I like the asymmetric neck line (that is just perfectly drafted so that I can wear a regular bra under it) and the mix of  woven fabric in black and the knit in the centre front only.  The woven fabric is textured cotton from Couture Elle in Montreal and the beautiful and colour full knit is from Emma One Sock.

Burda 2014-05-115 hem not done

Burda 2014-05-115 hm not done yet ;-)

close up of the fabrics I used and the original Burda picture

DH and I went diving in the Cayman islands last may. for the occasion I have sewn a series of beach and summer dresses that I enjoyed a great deal. This one was sewn using a OOP pattern from Kwik Sew #3333 I added and internal bra to avoid any unelegant bra showing session if the dress moves a little.

KS3333

The fabric is a light polyester knit with a large print bought online at Emma One Sock. It is lovely ad fluid. I feel light and wonderful on a hot summer day. I lined it with a skin tone power mesh...  that you can see as the wind is lifting my skirt and in the lower picture as well.

Inner bra made with two cup, power mesh and underwear elastic.

Lovely Little Cayman Island

KS 3333

Back view

I used KS 3333  as a base. I made the skirt and the bodice longer. I used a very unexpensive bamboo knit. I doubled the bodice and lined the skirt with skin tone power mesh. I love to roam around wearing the lovely dress.

Matching strip is a fun game !

KS 3333 back view

 Hoo yes I almost forgot this beach dress. It is self draft pattern. I used a very light and shear synthetic knit from Emma One Sock. I added trims and a hoody made from black power mesh. It is very nice over a bathing suit but not for the city of course !

Back view

Front view

Other posts are coming up. I have great garments to show !

Today, I worked on this pattern a great part of the afternoon. Though their is one missing in the picture, I took four patterns to create  the one I want.



For the neck line and the rest of the top front the drafting is inpired by Vogue 8413 and Vogue 1250
For drawing the back, I took pieces of Vogue 8413 and Butterick 4976
For the sleeves I use the ones from view B in Vogue 8413 easy choice.
Finally for the skirt, I took a little bit of Butterick 4976 (for the waist line) and Kwik Sew 3472 for the rest.

The result in two dimension is this :



The front as a self fabric fabric facing since it the inside might be visible. The dress will be lined so I draft a piece for the front lining that will be attached to the facine. The back and back lining are the same and the back neck line will be finished with a narrow band as in Vogue 1250. The sleeve will not be lined and the skirt back and front and lining use the same pattern.
The muslin will be cut tomorrow night.

I forgot to mention this pattern is based on a 5% negative ease. Whish is the minimum I negative ease I use for knits. When the fabric is stretchy, I go up to 12%. I depends on the fabric, the pattern and the spure of the moment.


J'ai passé une bonne partie de mon après midi à me faire plaisir. Contrairement à mes débuts en couture, aujourd'hui j'adore jouet au Dr Frankenstein. Je mets ensemble toute sorte de pièces de patron afin de créer le vêtement dont j'ai envie. Malheureusement, je ne possède pas les connaissances, le savoir faire et le talent de mon ami Paco Peralta. Ciel qu'il est impressionnant à voir travailler.


Ainsi cet après midi, je me suis inspirée de quatre patrons pour concevoir un modèle de robe.



Pour l'encolure et le devant en général je me suis inspiré des patrons Vogue 8413 et Vogue 1250
Pour dessiner le dos, le Vogue 8413 et Butterick 4976 m'ont été fort utiles
Les manches sont prise tel quel de la robe B du Vogue 8413
Finalement, la jupe amalgame la ligne de taille du Butterick 4976 et le reste vient du Kwik Sew 3472.

Vous avez ci-dessus le résultat de mon opération Frankenstein de la journée.
Le devant comporte une parementure à même la pièce du devant. La pièce arrondie constitue la partie devant de la doublure s'attachant à la parementure. Le dos sert aussi pour la doublure et une bande finira l'encolure dos comme pour le Vogue 1250. Le jupe devant et dos ainsi que la doublure utilise la même pièce. 


J'oubliais, le patron est basé sur une aisance négative de 5%. Selon, le patron, le tissu et mon goût du moment, je peux aller jusqu'à 12%. Plus que ça ce n'est pas joli.

Je taille la toile demain soir je crois. Je verrai alors si j'ai réussi.

If you forgot this is the fabric.  Si vous l'aviez oublié, le tissu sera ceci.



Do you Frankenstein sometimes ??

For Gaylene in Ottawa, I will make a special for my pants very soon. You will have all details.