- 11 h 10
- 2 Comments
I have been wearing my raincoat for at least two or three weeks. On and off since our spring plays a strange yo-yo game. One day it is 29C and the day after it is only 12C with close to freezing temperature during the night. Global mixing I call it instead of global warming.
The fabric was bought some six or seven years ago at Madeleine Soie et Laine, a store that no longer exists in Montreal... sadly. It was very easy to machine sew the raincoat but that fabric was though on my finger. The weaving is very dense, so passing the needle between fibres was difficult when I had to hand sew the facing and sleeves hem. As all synthetic water proof fabric, it required low iron temperature as well as precaution so that I would not iron the waterproof coating applied on the wrong side.
I wanted to show pictures on me so that you could see the lenght, that I judge perfect for my height. But I have this big cold and I look terrible. I seriously do not feel like playing model for DH.
So here is a series of pictures taken on Daisy who was kind enough to pause in the cold morning we had today (6C at 9:00 this morning).
The button holes wear done by a Pressage Unique on Beaubien street. They offer an excellent and quick service to tailors and sewist in Montreal. The button holes are all black except one that is light grey. Just for the fun of it.
This pattern, designed by Marcy Tilton, is perfectly well drafted. All pieces fit with high precision. It was more than a pleasure to sew a garment using this pattern. Marcy, you are a true artist !!! The lines have style. Style and simplicity combined usually seduce me... and this is what that pattern offers.
I received lots of positive comments for this raincoat. Colleagues at work were surprise that I use wall paint for the little splashes. I confirm, wall paint does not run when exposed to rain.
Now I have to sew clothes for my son's graduation. It is taking place on June 19. Silk brocard is on the table !!!
The fabric was bought some six or seven years ago at Madeleine Soie et Laine, a store that no longer exists in Montreal... sadly. It was very easy to machine sew the raincoat but that fabric was though on my finger. The weaving is very dense, so passing the needle between fibres was difficult when I had to hand sew the facing and sleeves hem. As all synthetic water proof fabric, it required low iron temperature as well as precaution so that I would not iron the waterproof coating applied on the wrong side.
I wanted to show pictures on me so that you could see the lenght, that I judge perfect for my height. But I have this big cold and I look terrible. I seriously do not feel like playing model for DH.
So here is a series of pictures taken on Daisy who was kind enough to pause in the cold morning we had today (6C at 9:00 this morning).
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| Vogue 8934 - the collar is perfect to wear a scarf underneath, it's height protect from the wind |
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| Details of the hand painting I did on patches sewn on the raincoat |
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| Vogue 8934 front view |
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| Vogue 8934 back view |
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| Vogue 8934 view of the lining |
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| I had one button hole down in light grey |
I received lots of positive comments for this raincoat. Colleagues at work were surprise that I use wall paint for the little splashes. I confirm, wall paint does not run when exposed to rain.
Now I have to sew clothes for my son's graduation. It is taking place on June 19. Silk brocard is on the table !!!
- 13 h 06
- 1 Comments
In the retail industry, they prepare garments many months in advance. In my sewing world, I don't always feel like sewing summer clothes when it is -20 C or sewing wool jackets and wintercoats when it is 20 C outside or worst when it is 30 C and humid.
Since winter is very, very long and very, very cold this year, my raincoat will be ready on time. This must be a premiere in my life ;-)
As I mentioned previously, I am working with Vogue 8934 pattern.This pattern has been designed by Marcy Tilton. It is a pure joy to work with this pattern. It is well drafted (all pieces fit wonderfully with one other ... it is not always the case) and the sizing is excellent. Often Vogue patterns are too big for me if I follow their size chart. I cut size S which is for women usually taking vogue pattern size 8 or 10. According to their chart, I am a mix of both. Bigger in the upper body because of my wide shoulders and wide upper back compare to my waist and narrow hips. As I planned, I took off 8 cm of the initial lenght. It is now 96 cm long.
I had a very precise idea in mind when I planned that project. Starting on view A, I wanted to use laser cut stencils and paint words on the appliqué (patches) pieces and play with that concept. In the back I would have wrote "Made In" and for the button hole patches would have formed the word J A P A N ... but the two types of paint I tried were running. And the words were not presentable.. sadness in my heart.
I seriously wanted to finish this project by the end of Easter weekend. Instead of trying 2-3 other types of paint and spending lots of money for an idea that did not work. I decided on playing around with a mid size paint brush like the ones you use to paint your home.
I had seen a very nice dress by Donna Karan with a large brush stroke type of pattern on a hip. So I decided to give it try.
I like the patterns I have created on the patches. Once dry I finished them with my overlock machine. My project is getting together nicely. The shell is finished, the lining is also done and I am now hemming the bottom of the raincoat.
Speaking of lining. I often start by sewing the lining, it allows me to verify the fit as it can semi-play the role of a toile/muslin. For this very loose fitting raincoat fitting was no issue, but it is nice to try the fit and lenght before cutting the fashion fabric. Starting with the lining gives me this impression that my project is going faster. It is totally psychological, but I feel more encouraged when I start by the lining. We all have our little tips.
So here are pictures of my project. Today, I have to finish the hem, sew the collar and the front band and voilà !! I have not decided on sewing patches in the button hole area like on view A. I have to see first the garment with the front band.
The lining is sewn in a Sevenberry quilting cotton made in Japan. For the sleeves, I used left over of man jacket lining to facilitate putting on and off the raincoat.The quilting cotton would not be smooth enough and it would stick on a wool jacket for example.
I forgot to mention that view A is not lined and that view B has a lining pattern. Si I used pattern pieces from both views and I mixed the instructions of both views. The back lining is cuton fold and you create the vent by sewing a fold at the bottom and a partial seam at the top of the back
The global view of the back lining gives this result. The fabric is great for a lining or a PJ, but it is way too busy for a dress... in my point of view of course.
View A and B have pockets. Marcy Tilton designed them with front and back part in the same fabric as the raincoat shell. I used the quilting cotton for the front part and added a neat band to hide the pattern when my hand is in the pocket.It is nicer when I put my hand in the packet and it is less bulky. Here is a series pictures illustrating the pocket.
Sewing through this fabric by hand is rather difficult. To ease my work, I attached the lining to the hem band BEFORE sewing the band to the raincoat. You see in magenta all my thread marking. I mark all pattern religiously. Except the water-repellent fabric to avoid piercing it to much. I mark it with wax paper instead. Pressing, marking and basting are done with lots of attention my sewing room.
Now ready for a weekend breakfast and the raincoat will be finished by the end of the day. See you later.
Here are 2 bad pictures taken with my phone. This is a fun project.
Since winter is very, very long and very, very cold this year, my raincoat will be ready on time. This must be a premiere in my life ;-)
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| Vogue 8934 view B |
As I mentioned previously, I am working with Vogue 8934 pattern.This pattern has been designed by Marcy Tilton. It is a pure joy to work with this pattern. It is well drafted (all pieces fit wonderfully with one other ... it is not always the case) and the sizing is excellent. Often Vogue patterns are too big for me if I follow their size chart. I cut size S which is for women usually taking vogue pattern size 8 or 10. According to their chart, I am a mix of both. Bigger in the upper body because of my wide shoulders and wide upper back compare to my waist and narrow hips. As I planned, I took off 8 cm of the initial lenght. It is now 96 cm long.
 |
| Vogue 8934 view A |
I had a very precise idea in mind when I planned that project. Starting on view A, I wanted to use laser cut stencils and paint words on the appliqué (patches) pieces and play with that concept. In the back I would have wrote "Made In" and for the button hole patches would have formed the word J A P A N ... but the two types of paint I tried were running. And the words were not presentable.. sadness in my heart.
I seriously wanted to finish this project by the end of Easter weekend. Instead of trying 2-3 other types of paint and spending lots of money for an idea that did not work. I decided on playing around with a mid size paint brush like the ones you use to paint your home.
 | |
| Donna Karan dress |
I had seen a very nice dress by Donna Karan with a large brush stroke type of pattern on a hip. So I decided to give it try. I like the patterns I have created on the patches. Once dry I finished them with my overlock machine. My project is getting together nicely. The shell is finished, the lining is also done and I am now hemming the bottom of the raincoat.
Speaking of lining. I often start by sewing the lining, it allows me to verify the fit as it can semi-play the role of a toile/muslin. For this very loose fitting raincoat fitting was no issue, but it is nice to try the fit and lenght before cutting the fashion fabric. Starting with the lining gives me this impression that my project is going faster. It is totally psychological, but I feel more encouraged when I start by the lining. We all have our little tips.
So here are pictures of my project. Today, I have to finish the hem, sew the collar and the front band and voilà !! I have not decided on sewing patches in the button hole area like on view A. I have to see first the garment with the front band.
I forgot to mention that view A is not lined and that view B has a lining pattern. Si I used pattern pieces from both views and I mixed the instructions of both views. The back lining is cuton fold and you create the vent by sewing a fold at the bottom and a partial seam at the top of the back
The global view of the back lining gives this result. The fabric is great for a lining or a PJ, but it is way too busy for a dress... in my point of view of course.
View A and B have pockets. Marcy Tilton designed them with front and back part in the same fabric as the raincoat shell. I used the quilting cotton for the front part and added a neat band to hide the pattern when my hand is in the pocket.It is nicer when I put my hand in the packet and it is less bulky. Here is a series pictures illustrating the pocket.
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| The band is 5 cm wide. |
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| Marcy makes secure the pocket with a little seam on the top through all layers. |
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| Peaking inside a little |
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| Peaking inside a little more |
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| Ajouter une légende |
Here are 2 bad pictures taken with my phone. This is a fun project.
- 11 h 04
- 1 Comments
Sur ma page Facebook, j'ai l'habitude de présenter en photo mon coup de coeur mode de la journée. Les commentaires qui s'en suivent, sont souvent partagés entre j'aime ou je n'aime pas du tout. Ça me fait toujours sourire. J'ai pensé partager ces coups de coeur avec vous.
On my Facebook page, I often show fashion pictures representing my favourite outfit for the day or fashion catch of the day as I like to call it. I thought I could start posting them here as well.
Here is the fashion catch of the day - Voici mon coup de coeur de la journée. J'aime la simplicité de la ligne et les manches de cuir souple.
Mais, en la regardant bien, Celine n'a pas travaillé le cuir un peu à cette manière il y a quelques temps? Une coïcidence je présume?
By looking at that dress a little longer, I am thinking about a design Celine presented a few years ago. Coïncidence I guess?
Voici le modèle créé par Celine au printemps 2010. Variation sur le même thème ?? Qu'en pensez-vous ?
Here is the dress created by Celine for their Spring 2010 collection. Variation on the same theme or different inspiration? What do you think?
On my Facebook page, I often show fashion pictures representing my favourite outfit for the day or fashion catch of the day as I like to call it. I thought I could start posting them here as well.
Here is the fashion catch of the day - Voici mon coup de coeur de la journée. J'aime la simplicité de la ligne et les manches de cuir souple.
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| Ralph Lauren Automne 2012 |
By looking at that dress a little longer, I am thinking about a design Celine presented a few years ago. Coïncidence I guess?
Voici le modèle créé par Celine au printemps 2010. Variation sur le même thème ?? Qu'en pensez-vous ?
Here is the dress created by Celine for their Spring 2010 collection. Variation on the same theme or different inspiration? What do you think?
- 22 h 27
- 1 Comments
Sur ce blog ou sur Facebook, je mentionne souvent mon intérêt et mon admiration pour le travail de Marie Saint-Pierre, cette grandissime designer Montréalaise. Puisque j'aime coudre mes propres vêtements et que je n'ai pas les moyens de m'acheter les orignaux, je me suis lancée à l'aventure de la conception d'un patron signé Anne-Marie. Bien sûr, je ne compare pas mon travail avec le sien. Mon travail demeure celui d'une amateure passionnée.
On this blog or on Facebook, I often wrote about my admiration and my great interest for Marie Saint-Pierre's work. Marie is a great and orginal designer from Montreal you should discover. Since I love to sew my own clothes and my wallet is not thick enough to buy the original, I launched my self into conceiving a dress signed Anne-Marie instead of Marie. I of course do not compare my work with her magnificent creations.
L'inspiration
La ligne ajustée de la robe noire et la taille empire me plaisait beaucoup et je désirais la joindre au drapé latéral de la robe beige.
I was attracted by the adjusted line of the black dress and it's empire waist. I wanted to join it to the lateral drape of the beige one.
La conception
Voici les pièces hauts et la première version de la jupe dessinée - Here are the top pieces (front and back) and the first version for the skirt that I drew.
Après avoir fait une toile en tricot de la jupe, j'ai réalisé que le drapé latéral en convenait pas. Il y avait trop de volume et de tissu pour ma petite silhouette (taille 36) et ma taille (1m63).
After sewing a knit muslin of the skirt part I realized that the lateral drape was oversized for my height (5'4'') and my silhouette (size 0 or 2).
Après correction
Après correction sur la toile, j'ai opté pour ce patron de jupe - After correcting on the muslin, I opted for this skirt pattern.
Le résultat
Voici le résultat en tricot de laine - Here is the result in wool knit
J'aime beaucoup le résultat final. Ce qui me plait toutefois un peu moins, c'est le tricot de laine que j'ai utilisé. Il se détend beaucoup sur la largeur une fois cousu. La robe est beaucoup moins ajusté que je l'aurais voulu. Les proportion du haut de la robe donne en principe une coupe ajusté et je l'avais d'ailleurs déjà testé avec un tricot de chez Emma One Sock. La robe demeure plus ample, mais je l'aime tout de même. Je reçois d'ailleurs plusieurs compliments lorsque je la porte. Peut être a-t-elle besoin de quelques minutes dans le sèche linge?
Jersey double 100% laine très fin
Doublure de la jupe en tricot de polyestère
Though I really like the final result, I might not have use right the knit for my pattern. Even if the pattern of the top, that I already tested with another Emma One Sock knit, was designed to be very fitted, the black wool knit did get loose after sewing if. I still have more of that knit and I will use it for an ampler dress pattern. The hand and the feeling on the skin is very nice.
When I find a thick synthetic knit, I will redo this dress. Meanwhile, I wear it in its present state, and I enjoy it. At work, I received lots of positive comments. I might be able to tighten the knit by putting in the dryer?
100% very fine wool jersey
Skirt lining in polyester knit
La première version
Voici la première version de ce patron réalisée dans une tricot de laine et synthétique acheté en 2010 chez Emma One Sock - Here is the first version sewn with this pattern. This is a wool and synthetic knit from Emma One Sock
On this blog or on Facebook, I often wrote about my admiration and my great interest for Marie Saint-Pierre's work. Marie is a great and orginal designer from Montreal you should discover. Since I love to sew my own clothes and my wallet is not thick enough to buy the original, I launched my self into conceiving a dress signed Anne-Marie instead of Marie. I of course do not compare my work with her magnificent creations.
L'inspiration
La ligne ajustée de la robe noire et la taille empire me plaisait beaucoup et je désirais la joindre au drapé latéral de la robe beige.
I was attracted by the adjusted line of the black dress and it's empire waist. I wanted to join it to the lateral drape of the beige one.
La conception
Voici les pièces hauts et la première version de la jupe dessinée - Here are the top pieces (front and back) and the first version for the skirt that I drew.
Après avoir fait une toile en tricot de la jupe, j'ai réalisé que le drapé latéral en convenait pas. Il y avait trop de volume et de tissu pour ma petite silhouette (taille 36) et ma taille (1m63).
After sewing a knit muslin of the skirt part I realized that the lateral drape was oversized for my height (5'4'') and my silhouette (size 0 or 2).
Après correction
Après correction sur la toile, j'ai opté pour ce patron de jupe - After correcting on the muslin, I opted for this skirt pattern.
Le résultat
Voici le résultat en tricot de laine - Here is the result in wool knit
J'aime beaucoup le résultat final. Ce qui me plait toutefois un peu moins, c'est le tricot de laine que j'ai utilisé. Il se détend beaucoup sur la largeur une fois cousu. La robe est beaucoup moins ajusté que je l'aurais voulu. Les proportion du haut de la robe donne en principe une coupe ajusté et je l'avais d'ailleurs déjà testé avec un tricot de chez Emma One Sock. La robe demeure plus ample, mais je l'aime tout de même. Je reçois d'ailleurs plusieurs compliments lorsque je la porte. Peut être a-t-elle besoin de quelques minutes dans le sèche linge?
Jersey double 100% laine très fin
Doublure de la jupe en tricot de polyestère
Though I really like the final result, I might not have use right the knit for my pattern. Even if the pattern of the top, that I already tested with another Emma One Sock knit, was designed to be very fitted, the black wool knit did get loose after sewing if. I still have more of that knit and I will use it for an ampler dress pattern. The hand and the feeling on the skin is very nice.
When I find a thick synthetic knit, I will redo this dress. Meanwhile, I wear it in its present state, and I enjoy it. At work, I received lots of positive comments. I might be able to tighten the knit by putting in the dryer?
100% very fine wool jersey
Skirt lining in polyester knit
La première version
Voici la première version de ce patron réalisée dans une tricot de laine et synthétique acheté en 2010 chez Emma One Sock - Here is the first version sewn with this pattern. This is a wool and synthetic knit from Emma One Sock
- 11 h 35
- 5 Comments
Tell me you won't sigh of admiration after watching this video...
Dites-moi que vous ne soupirerez pas d'admiration en regardant cette vidéo.
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Extrait de Fasionologie: "How Chanel makes its little black jacket"
Dites-moi que vous ne soupirerez pas d'admiration en regardant cette vidéo.
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Extrait de Fasionologie: "How Chanel makes its little black jacket"
- 13 h 04
- 4 Comments
I know this is not the best picture I could post. But, I was so exited to have finished it. With one muslin I was able to correct my pattern and get the result I wanted.
Again, this dress is inspired from two dressed designed by Marie Saint-Pierre. Of course, I would never dare to compare my work with hers. I simply enjoy sewing and drawing my own clothes... and I cannot afford buying the real thing. May be when I grow up !
The dress is made in a thin double wool jersey bought at Emma One Sock. This jersey it not made for very fitting garment. It is more appropriate for garment with a certain drape. The dress has an empire waist line. The top comes from a Jalie t-shirt pattern and the bottom is all mine. I will post pictures of the pattern pieces and of me wearing it.
Tomorrow, it comes to work with me ;-)
- 22 h 43
- 2 Comments
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| Photo par Vera Ciria voir l'excellent article sur son blog |
All apologies, this post is only in French. Click here for English.
Aqui para Castillano
Il y a de ça quelques années, en lisant le Blog de Laura Lo, je suis tombée sur une référence au travail de Paco Peralta. Une référence à sa technique de réalisation des boutonnières fait-main pour être plus précise. Dès les premiers instants, j'ai été impressionnée par la qualité de son travail, l'angle de ses photos toujours impeccable et bien sûr la grande beauté de ses créations.
Moi qui ai peine à dessiner mes idées, je ne pouvais être qu'admirative devant ses croquis. Je me rappelle particulièrement de ceux-ci:
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| Robe gitane Paco Perlata |
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| Robe de soie signée Paco Perlata |
Comment ne par être admirative devant tant de talent, de créativité et devant ce coup de crayon parfait. Depuis la fin de 2007, je suis attentivement tous les messages qu'il met en ligne sur son Blog. De la robe de soirée, au costume pour le boulot, en passant pas le pantalon impeccable et la robe de mariée, toutes, toutes, toutes ses créations demeurent à mes yeux des pièces magnifiques.
Outre ce talent et cette dextérité, il y aussi chez Paco une grande générosité. Dans d'autre domaine comme la photographie par exemple, vous tomberez rarement sur un pro en pleine carrière qui daigne livrer ses secrets... À moins qu'il ne soit payé grassement pour le faire. Je ne pouvais en croire mes yeux, Paco nous livrait ses secrets en ligne, à nous toutes avides de manier plus habilement l'étoffe et le fil.
Ainsi d'articles en commentaires, j'ai noué une amitié virtuel avec ce modiste pas ordinaire. Et puis, en gagnant un ami, je gagnais aussi une amie la belle Isabel, la soeur de Paco que vous avez sûrement vu jouant les mannequins sur son Blog.
Alors que je visitais Barcelone en mars 2011, j'ai pu finalement serrer la pince et faire la bise à mes deux nouveaux amis espagnols. Ils ont eu la grande patience d'écouter mon espéranto... quel charabia quand j'essaie de parler espagnol. ;-) Nous avons mangé, ri et conversé à plein. Je suis revenue au Québec avec des patrons, du tissu, des images magnifiques de la ville et deux nouvelles amitiés. Quel voyage fantastique!!
En touchant et en regardant de près les vêtements de ses clientes, je n'ai pu résisté l'envie d'en avoir un ou deux dans ma garde robe. Ainsi en troquant un peu, j'ai aussi eu l'immense privilège de recevoir par la suite deux vêtements signés Paco Perlata Barcelona. Oh la la, chaque fois que je les porte, les gens m'arrêtent sur la rue pour me complimenter.
Il y a eu tout d'abord la veste magnifique...
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| Veste Paco Peralta |
Et ensuite le haut en organza de soie
Je crois que Paco ne peut pas mesurer l'étendue de mon bonheur lorsque je porte et admire ses deux pièces de vêtements. Rarement dans ma vie j'aurai la chance de porter pareils vêtements dessinés et confectionnés par un pro de la haute couture, juste pour moi. Ces deux vêtements et surtout la rencontre avec la famille Peralta demeurent un événement pour moi.
Depuis plusieurs mois, une collection de patrons en vente sur Etsy s'est ajoutée aux créations de Paco. Voici ceux que j'ai reçus en cadeau ou achetés:
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| Patron de tunique |
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| Patron de haut gratuit à l'achat d'un autre patron |
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| Ensemble haut, veste et jupe circulaire |
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| Patron de veste |
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| Jupe circulaire |
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| Jupe portefeuille à la Yves Saint-Laurent |
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| Patron de manteau |
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| Patron de manteau léger |
J'ai aussi reçu trois magnifiques cadeaux, soit le patron de ma veste confectionnée par Paco, du haut en organza de soie illustré ci-dessus et un patron de pantalon de toréador.
Ce dernier patron sera sûrement la premier réalisé dans cette série.
Comme je le disais plus tôt, Paco je suis totalement charmée et en admiration devant ton travail... Merci de ton amitié, de ton talent et de ta générosité.
besos di Montreal para ti y Isabel
Anne-Marie
- 12 h 08
- 6 Comments
